Mar
29
The Best Place
posted by admin in Uncategorized
comments (0)
There is nothing like the feeling of catching your first wave of the day. It is the one place in the world where I feel like I can be whoever it is that I am, that I am not faking or pretending for anyone, and the wave doesn’t care who you are. The point is that you are there, it may throw you off, you may ride it out, but that moment where you are not really sure what is going to happen is the best feeling I have ever had.
That is why I love surfing, and to be honest it kind of bothers me that it is such a male dominated sport. And if you are a girl and into surfing you are seen as some sort of sex object. I am hoping to change all of that, watch this space for further updates!